outdated: Gosund EP2 Tasmota flashing #10350
Replies: 74 comments 270 replies
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Thanks Elmar Anything that should be updated there ? |
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Today I took the task of flashing. It was a bit difficult as my TX pad ripped off the pcb because I accidentally pulled the soldered cable but it stood connected until all was done. |
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Hi barbudor, many thanks for the link :-). I didn't know it => would have saved me quite some time in measuring the pins ;-) ;-) ;-). I'm not perfectly familiar with the templates structure. Just checked, my EP2 shows: I've tested the one from the link as well: Both are working pretty much the same (as far as I can tell, I'm still working my way into the tasmota universe ;-)). LED is blue when on, Power measuring shows same values, ... thanks again for the link |
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Thanks for the detailed explanation, I'll give it a try as soon as I managed to open that beast. I'm struggling on that part... |
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Hi SHA-NDY, yeah you are right. Opening those EP2 sockets can be tricky. Seems that there are units with different amount of glue and even different areas where the glue is applied... I recently bought another 4 sockets and I almost completely damaged one of them by doing it the way described above ;-)... But taking this damaged unit for further investigations I figured out a very practical way of handling these socket (at least for my usage). If you make a clear cut exactly 18mm from the top edge (transparent ring) through the socket housing you can take the top away without stressing about the glue areas and most importantly without damaging the housing too much. If the cut is right, you can reattach the top part perfectly, because the transparent part is longer than 18mm and chamfered at the bottom. In my case, the top "snaps" into place. I then applied some tesa strips just to fix the top part even more. For me that's the most practical way and has almost no visible impact (despite the little cutting groove). If you don't like the tesa strip and don't need access any more you could also fill the cutting groove by gluing the parts back together. Maybe there are even white glues so no visible impact at all ;-). Hope that helps a little. Good luck and calm hands for cutting ;-). br |
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Hi Elmar, |
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Hi, I know it was very long time ago but today I have to open my Gosound EP2 plug to flash them with my tasmota compilation
Wish you the same results! |
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Using a carpenters knife and a well dosed amount of force, you can actually open these without alot of destruction. mine is nearly intact after cracking it open with this method |
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Hi psych0d0g, yes, that was what I experienced with the first two sockets as well => glue only on top of the transparent ring. The problem with the next four sockets was that there was not just glue in the top region but also at the very bottom (see pic below). Actually you can see the glue spots right away. If you see those spots at the bottom region of the transparent part you cannot "pop" it out (at least I couldn't ;-)). I guess the gluing is done manually and therefore varies from socket to socket. The first two I got in December were pretty easy to open (like yours), the four I bought last week => no chance (as I said, I almost completely destroyed one socket before I realized there was glue at the bottom)... Seems to be a bit of luck needed ;-). br |
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This is not a criticism of your project, just additional funny information! |
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Cool project too :-) :-) :-). Only thing is, I wouldn't like to handle the coolant inside the socket ;-)... Getting it clean and dry again is a nasty job. But a nice project, especially the 3D printed ring to close the gap :-) |
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well, then i was in luck i guess, but flashing is kinda hit or miss, first one flashed after several attempt, with the second one im trying with the same soldering and tasmotizer for 30min without luck right now, putty can open the serial tho and displays debug output on 115200 baud |
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mhmm that's interesting. My 6 sockets behaved all the same during flashing... Do you get a connection in tosmatizer or does it stuck at "connecting"? br |
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stuck at connecting and then complaining about a timeout, same happend with the first plug the first few attempts The LED on the Plug flashes white every few seconds at tasmotizer trying to connect, or green if i pull the gpio0 - gnd wire |
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stange... I directly soldered the gpio0 pin to ground and then plugged the UART in... that gave me a constant blue LED and flashing worked great. Had no issues there... |
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Without the gpio0 grounded the ESP doesn't enter flash mode... maybe also try inverting your RX and TX. Keep in mind RX of your ESP goes to TX of your UART and vice versa... |
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rx & tx is fine as i can check the factory firmwares debug output using putty, i just resoldered my connections and checking again, maybe some connection was not "good enough" ;) |
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Interesting. Did you have to press the button during boot? Great to hear that it finally worked 🙂 |
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Lucky you :D |
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Had the same problem here, pressing the button once fixed it :) |
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My plugs were glued at the bottom, so I almost completely destroyed one of them (see pic) but for garage use it will work. I'll visit my friend at work. He has a turning lathe and that will do the job correctly. @estvulpes Thanks for measuring the distance to the bottom of the insert! Reassembling with some hot glue turns into a milky white and I think that's it for me.
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Yup, gluing spots just look like the ones on my sockets... Hot glue is a good idea 🙂👍 |
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Hello everyone, Does anyone have a tip for me. 7x switch on does not work. Thanks and greetings |
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Read the comment from sheepherder (#10350 (reply in thread)), they most likely can be re-animated with Tuya-convert. |
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Thanks for the answer. You a nice 2nd Advent |
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I also sent an email to the support and when they replied
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Got also two from these Gosund EP2 models (Actually its called usmart at Amz) and tried tuya-convert on them with the latest Tasmota minimal image, after I got them to version 1.0.6 through the gosund support. They showed up and were flashed successfully, but are now dead and doesn't spawn an access point nor react to button clicks or reset tries. Anything I might else try? here's the issue in tuya-convert for reference ct-Open-Source/tuya-convert#1086 |
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Hi @pixlmonstr , |
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Hey @pako88 |
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Is there any news? Maybe there is something pin compatible? Or is there a way to get them into iobroker? |
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For clarification, W701H is not WinnerMicro, it is Realtek RTL8720CF. |
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Hi, I also flashed my EP2 devices right now to Tasmota and used the template from there. |
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maybe somebody can add that set for others to the template page? I have not understand, why 320 or 576 is GPIO0 or GPIO2..... |
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As I said, you can always customize the GPIO settings dynamically via Configuration -> Configure Template. The original EP2 template just maps GPIO0 (WiFi Link) and GPIO2 (MQTT status) to certain (inverted) LED outputs. If you want to have it as a template, you can do so. Blakadder's EP2 template is an "old-style" template, which converts to new style when applied to a newer Tasmota version. The difference is explained here: https://tasmota.github.io/docs/GPIO-Conversion/, there you can also find the "new" 576 and 320 values. The old-style template to accomplish the same exchange of LED meanings would be: {"NAME":"Gosund EP2","GPIO":[158,255,56,255,132,134,0,0,131,17,0,21,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":45} You can do a pull request there: https://github.com/blakadder/templates/blob/master/_templates/gosund_EP2, but mind you, that would mean having two different templates for the same device, which is not the norm, as this is only about style. |
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Its nor only about style... for me its more like the default provided by the factory. I used those devices now for over 1 year and now it was blue |
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The factory setting is as abitrary as Blakadder's variant, which I deem to simulate the ShellyPlug S colours. |
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for sure, many thanks... I even dont get the numbers when I see them on that table :p - maybe I am not deep enough in tasmota to understand it |
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Hello, I measured the connections, if GPIO0 is pin1, then PIN 25 of the espressif (U0RXD) is connected to PIN2 (just next to the GPIO0 soldering) and PIN 26 of the espressif is connected to pin 4. So flashing using these larger contacts should be possible. However, I have not managed to flash, yet. Can someone please confirm? Am I right? |
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In my opion, PIN2 and PIN4 are both GND (and not TX and RX). |
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Hey guys, I semi-bricked my 1 out of 4 Gosund EP2. Probably because I used the "another device option" on the first time. Now the green light flashed once very shortly when plugging it in. The only thing the plug is capable now is switching powern on when pushing the button. Best regards, |
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Hi No connection and also no Tasmota ESP Button does not work any more, how to reset? or reanimate? thanks T |
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Plug into a power strip with a switch. |
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How fast should I turn it on and off? And should the green light be on after the last time turning it on? |
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Not too fast. I usually take two seconds on, two seconds off, 7 times. |
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Nah, unfortunately doesn't work for me... Guess it's semi-bricked. Flashed through tuya-convert, but after "successful" flash light stays green and doesn't do anything anymore. Might try to open the bugger. |
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Ok so i'm starting to hate these plugs. Yea.. so basically i have one serial flashed ok, one ota bricked open, one ota bricked closed and another with gosund firmware and also closed :D |
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Out of curiosity, does anyone know why it's not possible to flash on version 1.0.4? I mean, upgrading OTA is possible, otherwise they could not install 1.0.6. Does it then use another installation method, or signed/encrypted binaries? If so, why does it work with 1.0.6, did they reduce the security or use another upgrade method there? |
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Because in 1.0.4 they disabled the back door that tasmota exploits to load firmware onto it. Then they put it back in in 1.0.6 and 1.0.8. |
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--- NO TASMOTA FOR GOSUND EP2 ANYMORE ??? --- Tried to upgrade/downgrade Gosund EP2 via the support email ([email protected]). The answers:Thank you for your email. and second:
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By now, you should expect zero current Gosund devices to be eligible for Tuya-convert. You can also get some devices factory-flashed with Tasmota. https://templates.blakadder.com/preflashed-type.html |
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@C-o-l-u-m-b-o So that means that newer versions contains new chip and that is reason of firmware incompatibility? Or the reason is something else and if I disassembly can I flash the device to Tasmota through serial? |
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Just if anyone considers this ex-ante: Even if you could flash the device via serial, it is probably not worth the hassle to open it and risk damage. There are devices available with the same or better functionality which already come with Tasmota preinstalled, like the Nous A1T. That one also handles a higher load. |
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Yeah, but I have got in my country sale with 1/3 price of Nous A1T. But you're right that buy device with preinstalled Tasmota is more simple |
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If you have the hardware, you could check the vendor via getting the MAC and looking it up. If not "Espressif", the MCU is not Tasmota-compatible. |
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Thanks for this write-up. A minor clarification on your wording " To get COM access you need to solder on GND (black), VCC (red), RX (yellow) and TX (green). I measured these pins according to the ESP8285 spec ". So, the yellow wire makes a connection to the RX of the ESP8266 chip and the TX of the USB programmer, the green wire between the TX of the ESP8266 and the RX of the USB programmer. |
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Hi, I cannot say for sure (because I did not open the gosund and sent it back already) but my interpretation was, there is really different chip inside. That would mean also manual flashing by opening it would not be possible.
I agree it is a pity, as I could get gosund for a much better price than pre-flashed tasmota like nous a1t ...but what does it help? The nous a1t btw. worked like a charm.
Am 28. August 2023 16:57:16 MESZ schrieb sfromis ***@***.***>:
…If you have the hardware, you could check the vendor via getting the MAC and looking it up. If not "Espressif", the MCU is not Tasmota-compatible.
--
Reply to this email directly or view it on GitHub:
#10350 (reply in thread)
You are receiving this because you were mentioned.
Message ID: ***@***.***>
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Hi, Your request (---) has been updated. To add additional comments, reply to this email. Witch socket EP2 RTL oder AR - whtas the differnence & how can i find out |
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Quick googling revealed that RTL is Realtek chips not usable for Tasmota. You can check the MAC, like in pairing mode, using a Wifi Analyzer app, and look it up on services like My general expectation for recently acquired devices is that, unless you got old stock, just forget about seeing the Gosund EP2 as usable with Tasmota. |
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I bought my Gosund EP2 plugs last May (I cannot find where anymore). I opened both and they turned out to be built in a different way (one had the earth clamps soldered, the other welded). Both could be flashed to Tasmota. Below the plug info as displayed by Tasmota ESP Chip Id 14684859 (ESP8285N08) ESP Chip Id 14715911 (ESP8285N08) MAC-addresses start with E0 The blackadder site gives the Realtek warning for the Gosund SP112, not for the Gosund EP2, see: |
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i found: Apparently these sockets are available with two sets of chips. Firstly, the “normal” ESP8266 or esp8566 from Espressif. When you receive the sockets, the first thing you should do is check the MAC address of the respective socket in the Gosund app. The MAC address reveals the manufacturer of the WiFi chip plus the respective ID number. A MAC address consists of 6 hexadecimal values separated by a colon. A Tasmota flashable socket ALWAYS has a MAC address starting with “48:55:19”. Also, for example, Mac address “48:55:19:XX:XX:XX”. These first three numbers determine the manufacturer of the WiFi chip. “48:55:19” is Espressif Inc. If it’s not Espressif, it doesn’t work. Next, the firmware version should be checked in the Gosund app. Normally these sockets are flashed with firmware 1.04, which does not allow updates via Tuya-Convert. all MAC adresses are OK but i dont no whats the difference of RTL and AR.... |
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@gosund, it is clear that, if you want to address the market of Tasmota-users, there is some work to do! Thanks, anyway, for the users you were able to help with firmware updates. |
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The key word of that is were, not are. When it is the RTL build, Tasmota is no longer an option. And do not expect recent devices to be anything but RTL. Retaining the small Tasmota market was not much of a consideration to them, obviously. |
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Hello I need your help. At which points do I have to solder to flash Tasmota? |
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Here is the pinout of the PCB: |
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Hi all! What command should I use to reset the counters? |
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EnergyToday 0 |
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Hi there, just in case someone struggles (like I did) with the latest gosund “EP2” and flashing tasmota…
Just before Christmas I ordered two of these smart plugs from gosund and I didn’t really looked at the version ;-). So here we are having two EP2s with "no" possibility to disassembly them (EP2 housings are glued and not screwed) and no OTA seems to work…
Since it’s Jan. 1st and don’t want to wait to send them back and order different ones I started to take a closer look.
(1) Biggest challenge is to get the transparent part of the white main housing (they are glued together). Carefully “opening” the glued area you end up with something that looks like this (compared to the original one). Doesn’t look that much great but hey, these plugs shall work and not shine ;-):
(2) Next step is unscrewing (yes there are screws ;-)) these 3 screws (red) and soldering of the ground connection (blue):
(3) If that’s done, you can take the ground connection away and unscrew the plug from its housing:
(4) Next you need little force (I use a drilling vice to apply the force evenly an parallel) to push the plug out of its housing:
(5) You end up with something looking like this:
(6) Next you need to carefully disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna from the chip pcb:
(7) You can now unclip the antenna carrier and you end up with the bare plug itself. The entire smart plug disassembled looks like this:
(8) Now to the actual flashing procedure. To get COM access you need to solder on GND (black), VCC (red), RX (yellow) and TX (green). I measured these pins according to the ESP8285 spec and luckily there are solder pads on the chip pcb :-):
(9) You also need to ground this pin to enter flash mode:
(10) Connecting it to the USB-UART programmer looks like this (in my case):
(11) For flashing I used the Tasmotizer 1.2:
(12) After flashing, you need to configure the module. It turned out to work with these configs:
(13) Everything reassembled and glued back together (just for safety), I end up with the gosund EP2 working as I wanted it (keep in mind that working with AC can be very dangerous and you should never plug AC in without the housing on!):
So, all in all the process it pretty straight forward. It took my like 1h for the 1st plug and about 10 minutes for the second (figuring out the UART connection took the most time). But I have to say that there are plugs being WAY easier to flash ;-).
Best regards
Elmar
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